Menu:

Northern Wisconsin Trip, Part 1 of 2



C'mon, let's go!

It is a mild fifty five degrees, Labor Day weekend, 2007 and fog is creeping in on the morning of our departure. Our starting point is Boscobel, located in the southwest corner of the state. Boscobel is a small community with a population of about 3,000 surrounded by lush, rolling hills and skirted by the Wisconsin river. Boscobel is best known as the birthplace of the Gideon bible but also claims the title of Wisconsin's Turkey Hunting Capital.

Our destination is Ashland, Wisconsin located at the base of Lake Superior in the northern part of the state. We are riding our 1996 BMW R1100RT and accompanying us are Ray and Terri on a 2005 BMW K1200LT. It's about 7:30 in the morning as we pull onto Highway 133 heading east. The fog begins to thicken and it becomes more difficult to maintain speed. Water slowly worms its way up my windshield and takes a final leap onto my helmet. It might as well be raining.

Highway 133 leads us through the small towns of Blue River and Muscoda (pronounced mus-co-day). Muscoda stakes its claim as the "Morel Mushroom Capital of Wisconsin". We make our way to Highway 80 where we will remain for the next several hours. Or so we think. Due to recent torrential rains and flash flooding, bridges are out we are diverted to Highway 58 at Richland Center. Richland Center is a college town with a population of 5,100. Detours aren't all that bad as we are treated to a meandering road and a parade of rocky outcroppings, most notably Elephant Rock.

Our next road change is onto Highway 33 at LaValle which eventually winds its way back to our original Highway 58 at Union Center. Four miles to the north is our first stop in a little town called Elroy. Elroy may be best known as the hometown of former Governor Tommy Thompson and top notch scenic bike trails. However, in the world of motorized two wheels, it is acclaimed as the birthplace and youthful stomping grounds of renowned columnist and author Peter Egan. Egan pens a monthly column for Cycle World magazine entitled "Leanings" and has authored a book or two bearing the same tile. In fact, his column in the October, 2007 issue of Cycle World references his recent return to his hometown and reflects on his childhood life and the people he so fondly remembered in this small community.

Cherry Tree Cafe in Elroy

It's about 9:00 and we decide it's time to grab some breakfast. We park in front of the Cherry Tree Cafe located on Elroy's main street. Inside we are greeted by friendly staff and a warm atmosphere. Our first meal of the day and it goes down quickly. Sorry about the loud sneeze. Did it really sound like a German Shepherd?

As we make our way back to the parking lot we encounter a gentleman riding a Yamaha V-Star. He hadn't ridden in ten years and at the tender age of seventy-something he realized the open road was still calling his name. More power to him.

We continue north, sun at our back, to our next road change at Pittsville. Pittsville is known for being located in the exact center of Wisconsin. It is here that we pick up Highway 13. Highway 13 is a relatively straight road that takes us through such towns as Marshfield, Spencer, Colby and Medford. Medford is where Tombstone Pizza was founded in the 1970s. The name Tombstone was taken from The Tombstone Tap, a tavern owned by the founders and situated across from a cemetery. I must say I have more than a few of those pizzas under my belt. Or over my belt as the case my be.

About eleven miles up the road we decide to take Highway 102 and make our first fuel stop at Rib Lake. Rib Lake was home to the Rib Lake Lumber Company which was formed in 1882 and grew to produce more than a billion board feet of lumber. The mill was shut down in 1948, after depletion of the area's timber.

We continue on Highway 102 to the town of Spirit where we pick up Highway 86 in search of Timms Hill, the highest point in Wisconsin. We arrive at Timms Hill and find a spot to park our bikes. A shaded gravel path winds its way up to a lookout tower that offers a spectacular 360 degree view. As we return to our bikes we meet Dean from Merrill, Wisconsin riding a Yamaha Venture. Dean was just out for a cruise enjoying the scenery.

As we leave Timms Hill on Highway 86 we switch back to Highway 13 just outside of Ogema. We travel north through Phillips, Park Falls and Mellen. Just north of Mellen lies Copper Falls State Park. The park was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s and features breathtaking waterfalls. We intend to visit but change our minds on the fly. Perhaps next trip.

Yamaha R6 at Hotel Chequamegon

It's around 5:30 in the afternoon and with nearly 350 miles on the trip odometer we arrive in Ashland. Ashland, population 8,620, is located near the tip of Chequamegon Bay on mighty Lake Superior. We angle into the parking lot of one of the first motels we see, crawl off the bikes and head inside. After a quick visit with the desk clerk we learn that every motel room within a 50 mile radius is seemingly booked solid. It appears that everyone is out and about during this Labor Day weekend, the last hoorah of the summer. The gentleman at the front desk is kind enough to call other area motels and magically finds 2 rooms, each at different locations. We wisely claim them and thank him for his help. Ray and Terri head for the Anderson Motel. My wife, Mary Anne and I scurry off to ours. However, when we arrive at our motel, we find that our room was just given up to someone else. How can this be? I question the clerk about his decision and leave quietly, head shaking in disgust. We hurriedly (mad guy wheelie) leave the parking lot and desperation begins to set in. We decide to make a last ditch effort and take a chance at the Super 8 just up the road. We arrive at the Super 8 and inquire about room availability. We should have known the answer. No rooms. However, after much pleading from my wife, a suite that was being held back for some unknown reason suddenly was ours for the taking. Lucky us. Thanks again, ladies.

In the parking lot we encounter more two-wheelers which include a Triumph Daytona and a Harley with a home-made trailer. We check in and freshen up ready to embark on a food search. It doesn't take long as we spy the elegant Hotel Chequamegon situated along Lakeshore Drive. The massive hotel features a Victorian theme, fantastic view of the bay and endless food choices. Okay, so I order a cheeseburger. We enjoy our meal on the large, elevated deck and finish with a dessert of the sun disappearing behind the peninsula. Ahh, this is the life.

Chequamegon Pier at sunset

As we leave the comfort of the Chequamegon we reflect on the day's events and look forward to our continuing journey.


This ends Part 1 of a 2 part series. Please come back and join us on our return trip which includes an encounter with Blair from Canada and his Hell's Angels custom chopper!